Pizzeria Basta Makes 5280.com’s Table Talk

Table Talk for January 19

Best Bites: Den Deli

When Den Deli–Toshi and Yasu Kizaki’s Japanese deli and noodle bar–opened on South Pearl Street in late November, it was an immediate hit. The brothers, who have already proven themselves with the adjacent Sushi Den and Izakaya Den, now offer a dialed-down experience that’s conducive to either dining in or taking out. The glass cases offer packaged sushi (the same great stuff you can get across the street), sandwiches, salads–don’t miss the roasted beet and pear–and Japanese selections. Two best bets: The kinpira gobo, a soy-sauce-laced tangle of matchstick carrots and burdock root, and the addictive sautéed eggplant with miso. There’s also a noodle station ladling up big, brothy bowls of ramen and udon (the tempura-shrimp udon is especially tasty) and a seafood case stocked with at-home sushi makings: top-notch fish, roe, sea urchin, wasabi, and yuzu. 1501 S. Pearl St., 303-733-2503 –Amanda M. Faison

The Buzz: Rooster & Moon Coffee Pub

Every neighborhood needs a good coffeeshop–sometimes two or three. And as of late November, the Golden Triangle’s Dazbog and Metropolis Coffee have found competition in the new Rooster & Moon Coffee Pub on Bannock Street. The tucked-away shop specializes in organic java (Allegro) and tea (Vail Mountain Coffee & Tea Co.) and serves baked goods from City Bakery, as well as made-to-order salads and sandwiches (try the robust hot caprese or the hearty Addison, stacked with roast turkey, Swiss cheese, honey mustard, lettuce, tomato, and a drizzle of virgin olive oil).Bonus: Ample electrical outlets aside, the modern and sleek space doubles as a bar. 955 Bannock St., 303-993-2622 –AMF

The Pantry: Wen Chocolates’ Preserves

Many of us know Wen Chocolates as the go-to spot for decadent treats (like the wonderfully complex violette truffles). But did you know owner William Poole also makes and sells preserves? We treasure the seasonal jar of clove-tinged pear, candied ginger, and gingerbread spices, which can be eaten with cheese, spread on sandwiches, or paired with grilled pork. Be sure to try some of the new flavors: cherry, fig, and chutney; blueberry, Merlot, and star anise; and a citrus-chocked preserve with grapefruit, lemon, and orange. Bonus: Check out Poole’s recipe for prosciutto-wrapped pears, which ran in 5280’s January issue. (His preserves would pair beautifully with this appetizer). 1541 Platte St., 303-477-5765 –AMF

Go Now: Pizzeria Basta

With dough made from a 50-year-old starter and charcuterie and cheeses crafted in-house, Pizzeria Basta is not your everyday pizza joint. Indeed, chef-owner Kelly Whitaker’s food is more like fine dining on a charred crust. Basta (which means “enough” in Italian) is focused on the simplicity of ingredients. You’ll taste that commitment in the innovative menu: wood-fired pizzas with ingredients such as rapini, fennel pollen, chiles, and house-made sausage; crostini draped with warm slices of lardo, fresh mizuna, and a sprinkling of Maldon salt; and the delicate Burrata, served with sautéed leeks and house-cured pancetta. 3601 Arapahoe Ave., Boulder, 303-997-8775 –Carol W. Maybach

Sips: Absinthe at À Côté Bar

Absinthe, the green spirit favored by Parisian artists and writers in the last century, has made a comeback. If you’re new to the licorice-flavored sip, head to À Côté Bar à Absinthe and order a shot of either the Grand or Libertine. Here, bartenders follow the traditional ritual: a leaf-shaped slotted spoon is placed over a glass and then topped with a sugar cube, which is lit on fire and blown out by the drinker. Next, an absinthe fountain slowly drips ice-cold water onto the sugar cube, displacing the absinthe in the glass below and creating a cloudy opalescence known as louche. When the clouds reach the top line of the absinthe, pick up the glass, toast your partner, and enjoy. Tidbit:Although hugely popular 100 years ago, absinthe was banned in the United States (and several other countries) for its addictive qualities and alleged ability to make people psychotic. The drink has since been proven to be no more harmful than regular spirits, and the ban was lifted in the U.S. in 2007. 2239 W. 30th Ave., 303-477-1111 –Shari Caudron